August 24, 2012

Kit Review: 1/72 FA-78-1 Full Armor Gundam

1/72 FA-78-1 Full Armor Gundam Sentinel

Manufacturer: G-System-Best
Cast Quality: 10/10.
The same bar of quality I have come to expect from G-System-Best.  I loved how complex this kit looked, and there are many, MANY pieces in this kit.  As you can see, the details are casted nicely, and it came with all metal accessories and even a rather large stand!  Looking forward to starting this kit.





















As you can see, it looks great!

August 9, 2012

100,000 hits! Thank you and a request!

I started this blog primarily because I wanted to create an easy to navigate blog that had tutorials that community lacked clarity on.  I hoped that I may possibly become a resource for the community, and I do it simply to help maybe even one person who was in my shoes when I first started.

So this post is a thank you.  And a request.

If you would like to see any tutorials, please write them in the comments.  Any suggestions are always welcomed as well!


July 9, 2012

WIP: 1/48 G-System 1/48 RX-78-2 Eiyuu-Tan WIP Part 2

Alright, it has been far too long.

Decided I'm NOT going to be doing this for any competition, so I'm just going to finish the project, no holds barred, no careful precision needed. I will use majority precision, but no biggie if I mess up I guess is what I'm saying. I am almost done completely with airbrushing except for the glossy and flat coats. I have to do some more detail painting and decals, then final assembly. Legs are 99% complete though.

Onto the pics:








I'm a bit rusty, it's been 4 months!

May 10, 2012

Gundam Building 101: Panel Line Washes



Ah yes, the mysterious panel line wash.

I've seen some tutorials on it, everyone says it's easy, and yet, I see it so little.  If more people knew how easy it was, maybe we would see it more often.  I see many people using the Gundam Markers, sharpies, and pencils where using a panel wash is actually easier and requires less investment.I am creating this tutorial to shed some light on this.

Panel lining is simply adding dark lines to crevasses and lines that occur along pieces in your model.  This adds depth that sometimes is missing using small scale models that would otherwise occur on a larger version.  You can also think of this as 'outlining' or 'inking' your model to give it a much more defined look.

Materials Needed for this Process:
 - Model pieces that may or may have not been painted
 - Glossy Top Coat (Future or any other non-enamel gloss coat)
 - A turpenoid based lighter fluid (I recommend Zippo lighter fluid - costs $1.99 for ~3-4oz., there is also a yellow bottle called Ronsonol) - I bought it at a cigarette store, or the cigarette section at a grocery store.
 - Q-tips
 - Black (or gray) enamel paint

Standard Modeling Tools:
 - Mixing tin
 - Small-tipped paint brush


1.  Coat your part with Future or other gloss coat.  I use Plamo Colour Gloss coat (lacquer based).  If you are painting, make sure you are done painting your part for this.  I recommend having the decals on already too.  Let the parts dry. Note: Make sure your gloss coat is either Acrylic or Lacquer, and NOT enamel. This will not work if you use an enamel coat.


2.  Mix enamel black paint and lighter fluid in a 60:40 ratio.  Make sure it is well mixed.


3.  With a fine tipped brush, dab the paint into the crevasses and (if you want) where edges and corners meet. Make sure the paint brush has lots of paint liquid in it, and you only want to DAB it in the crevass so that it will flow out of the tip and into the crevass, like water into a water slide.


4. Let the part dry for about 5-10 minutes. It should look something like the above.



4.  Let the paint dry for about 10 minutes (move onto other pieces), then get your q-tip damp with some Zippo lighter fluid and clean up the paint drops that are on the surface. Note: Here is where technique and practice will come in handy. Make sure the tip isn't covered with liquid, only slightly damp, and evenly and delicately glide the q-tip across the surface.


5. Enjoy your hard work. Easy, wasn't it?

6. Add a flat top coat to make it look super slick!

Here are some other before and after pics:








Also note: the lighter fluid dries quickly, even in the tray you mix with paint. Make sure the solution is relatively thin (not thick like paint) before you put it on your part by adding more lighter fluid if necessary.

February 17, 2012

WIP: 1/48 G-system RX-78-2 Eiyuu Tan Ver. Part 1

I began work on this in January - it is my first large-scale resin project.  I've been working on it, and it really isn't too different from a regular 1/100 project - the pieces just require more time to paint.

Casting is phenomenal and I'm going to be entering this into the MAC forum contest (though I am more doing this solely for fun).  Painting will be once again majority Plamo Colour. 


Here's a pic of the pinned project next to a 1/100 model for scale.


Priming the gigantic shield


Added some details to the skirts (see GB 101: Plamo Plate Modification)


80% complete with the gun - have to flat coat it after I add some more details


Painted the lower half of the torso (only showing 1 leg here).  Almost done with all of the white and red, next is gray, then blue.

More to come!